www.masbakersfield.com

20 making a difference: Cuisine

For Kenny Gomez, Mexicali is about more than food — it’s about family.
    
Since Gomez was 12, he’s worked at one of the two, local restaurant locations. Now 55, and one of the owners, he’s a constant, familiar presence at Mexicali West on California Avenue, serving up fabulous Mexican dishes to everyone from the former President George Bush and Gov. Arnold Schwarzenegger to those loyal customers who dig into the chips and salsa once, twice or three times a week.

“I’ve seen families grow up,” said Gomez, whose own family’s history and future are inextricably tied to the restaurant.

“We consider ourselves Americans, but we’re also proud of our Hispanic descent,” said Gomez.

His grandparents, Santos and Trinidad, immigrated from Mexico (Durango and Sonora, respectively) to Bakersfield in the 1940s.

After Santos’ stint with the railroad, they decided to go into business for themselves.

Ventures included a grocery store, gas station, tortilla bakery, and finally a soda stand, which eventually began serving food and became the first Mexicali, which opened in 1957 at its current location on 18th and R streets.

The original Mexicali’s success led to the opening of the second location on California 20 years later in 1977.

Today, Kenny and his mother, Esther, run Mexicali West along with Esther’s sister Lillie George’s daughter, Irene. Cousins Rueben Crews and Gloria Griego run the downtown location.

Gomez said a central kitchen on Baker Street ensures that the food remains consistent and traditional.

Customer favorites include Esther’s Delight,  tostadas, daily specials and, of course, the famous salsa and margaritas, according to Gomez.

Gomez used to work six days a week, but now he allows himself two days off.

“Our customers like to see the management and owners,” said Gomez, who added that his presence is also to make sure that diners receive the service they deserve and that Mexicali’s food remains “the best of the best.”

Gomez is single, so he doesn’t cook too much on his off time, he said.

His twin daughters are turning 30 and his son is 18. Gomez hopes that his son will eventually get involved and carry on the family tradition of providing great food to the people of Bakersfield.

“I hope that he will continue the legacy,” Gomez said.